March Lawn & Garden: Step-by-Step Schedule

February 25, 2026

March Lawn & Garden: Step-by-Step Schedule 

March Lawn & Garden: Step-by-Step Schedule 


March is the month to wake your yard up: clear winter debris, relieve compacted soil, and get ahead of weeds and moss so spring growth is strong. Below is a clear, week-by-week and day-by-day plan you can follow through March, plus a printable checklist at the end.








March Schedule — Week by week (easy to follow)




Week 1 (March 1–7) — Clean & Prep



  • Day 1–2: Winter cleanup
  • Rake leaves, pick up twigs and debris from lawn and beds. Remove any dead annuals.
  • Pull out or cut back winter-damaged perennials and grasses left for winter interest.
  • Day 3: Tool & mower service
  • Sharpen mower blades, clean the deck, replace oil/air filter if needed, check spark plug.
  • Clean and oil hand tools (pruners, shovels).
  • Day 4–7: Inspect & plan
  • Walk the property: mark bare/thin lawn spots, compacted areas, moss patches, and beds that need mulch or soil amendment.
  • Check irrigation systems/startup and timers (if you have one) — don’t run frequently yet; only if dry.




Week 2 (March 8–14) — Weed prevention & early care



  • Apply pre-emergent herbicide (early March — ideally when soil temps reach ~50°F for several days; adjust for local climate):
  • Use a product labeled for your grass type and follow label rates. This prevents crabgrass/annual weeds.

  • Moss control / iron application
  • Treat moss patches with an iron-based product to darken and suppress moss; follow label directions.

  • Light watering
  • If March is dry, water deeply once or twice during the week to encourage root growth (avoid shallow, frequent watering).




Week 3 (March 15–21) — Soil care & lawn repair



  • Core-aerate the lawn
  • Aerate compacted areas — best when soil is moist but not muddy. Rent or hire a core aerator for best results.

  • Overseed thin/bare patches (if cool-season turf)
  • After aeration, overseed bare spots and lightly rake seed into soil; keep seedbed moist until established.

  • Fertilizer / iron (optional)
  • Apply a balanced spring fertilizer or an iron supplement if lawn looks pale. Match fertilizer type to your grass (cool-season vs warm-season).




Week 4 (March 22–31) — Prune, plant, mulch




  • Pruning
  • Prune summer-flowering shrubs and trees now (before new growth starts). Remove dead wood and shape lightly.
  • Cut back ornamental grasses and divide early perennials (hostas, daylilies) if desired.
  • Plant cool-season crops & cold-hardy ornamentals
  • Plant lettuce, spinach, radishes, peas and other cool-season vegetables.
  • Transplant hardy perennials and add early spring color (pansies, snapdragons where appropriate).
  • Mulch & soil amendments
  • Add 1–2” of organic mulch to beds (keep mulch off crowns/stems). Top-dress garden beds with compost if needed.





Quick mowing & maintenance timeline to follow during March



  • Before first mow: Only mow when grass is actively growing and soil is dry enough to avoid compaction.
  • First mow: Set mower high (leave grass taller than usual) and only remove the top 1/3 of the blade height.
  • Weekly checks: Walk the yard once a week for pest/mold issues, frost risk, or new winter damage. Keep frost blankets handy if late cold snaps threaten 



March Lawn & Garden Checklist


  • [] Rake and remove winter debris (leaves, twigs)
  • [] Cut back dead perennials & ornamental grasses
  • [] Sharpen mower blades; service mower & tools
  • [] Inspect & turn on irrigation; test timers
  • [] Apply pre-emergent herbicide (early March)
  • [] Apply iron to moss patches (if needed)
  • [] Core-aerate lawn (mid-March)
  • [] Overseed thin/bare spots (after aeration)
  • [] Apply balanced spring fertilizer or iron (as needed)
  • [] Prune summer-flowering shrubs & remove dead wood
  • [] Plant cool-season vegetables & divide perennials
  • [] Add mulch / top-dress beds with compost
  • [] First mow when grass is actively growing; set blades high






Notes & tips (short)



  • Adjust for your climate and grass type. Cool-season lawns (fescue, bluegrass, rye) follow slightly different timing than warm-season lawns (Bermuda, zoysia). If you’re unsure which you have, check local extension resources or tell me your city and I’ll tailor the schedule.
  • Follow product labels. Always follow label instructions for herbicides, fertilizers, and moss treatments.
  • Safety & timing. Avoid heavy work on wet soil to prevent compaction; aerate when soil is moist.
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Southwest Winter Yard Checklist Cool, bone-dry days + surprise hard-freeze nights 1. Water before the cold, not during it Give everything a deep soak the day before a forecast freeze—well-hydrated roots resist cold desiccation. After that, water only if soil is dry 2 inches down ; winter rainfall is scarce and roots can still bake under clear skies. 2. Mulch like the desert depends on it (because it does) Spread 2–3 inches of shredded cedar, pecan hulls, or pine needles to trap moisture and buffer 40°F days followed by 18°F nights . Keep mulch 3 inches back from cactus pads and agave crowns to prevent rot. 3. Build a “frost teepee” in 60 seconds Three tomato stakes + an old bedsheet = instant tent. Drape the sheet so it hangs to the ground by sunset; remove it at sunrise so plants don’t bake. For cactus, wrap burlap around the stakes— never let fabric touch spines (they hold moisture and freeze). 4. Stop pruning and fertilizing on Labor Day New growth triggered by nitrogen or fresh cuts is frost-tender. Clean up only fully dormant wood; save major pruning for late February , once 20°F nights are past. 5. Store the succulents that can’t take 25°F Aloes, kalanchoes, and small agaves belong in an unheated garage or covered patio . No light? No problem—they’re asleep. Water once a month , a sip—not a soak. 6. Protect drip lines and valves Insulate above-ground emitters with foam pipe wrap. Leave the timer on “manual” and run irrigation only when temps rise above 35°F . A cracked valve costs more than any plant you’ll lose. 7. Wildlife buffet control — desert edition Javelina love tender yucca spears; rabbits nibble desert willow twigs. Surround young plants with 3-ft-tall chicken-wire cages sunk 4 inches into rocky soil so animals can’t root underneath. 8. Rock-dust mineral boost Scatter ½ cup of gypsum or decomposed granite around native shrubs after the last irrigation of the year . Winter freezes break minerals down, giving caliche soils the calcium they crave—no extra water needed. 9. Tool and battery care Bring cordless pruners and lithium batteries indoors—desert cold kills charge capacity. Rub wooden handles with linseed oil to prevent cracking when humidity drops to single digits. 10. Scout for surprise volunteers A single December rain can sprout London-rocket and filaree. Pull weeds while they’re thumb-size —desert weeds set seed fast and steal spring moisture. Knock out this list over Thanksgiving weekend and your cactus, palo verde, and desert perennials will cruise through January’s 18°F mornings—ready to bloom when the first 80°F day hits in March. Pacific Northwest Winter Yard Checklist Cool temperatures + endless rain 1. Blanket the soil now, thank yourself later Rake back old mulch and add 2–3 inches of arborist chips or leaf mold around perennials, shrubs, and newly planted trees. Keep mulch a fist-width away from trunks to prevent rot. 2. Give frost-tender plants a rain-proof jacket Use an old cotton sheet or floating row cover, propped on bamboo stakes so leaves don’t touch fabric. Secure with clothespins and remove when the sun appears. Avoid plastic—it traps heat and cooks plants during the day. 3. Create a “no-buffet” zone for deer, voles, and mountain beavers Install ½-inch hardware-cloth cylinders , 18 inches tall, around new tree trunks Spray evergreens with a bittering agent (putrescent egg solids) every 30 days ; reapply after heavy rain Mow tall grass near trunks—rodents hate crossing open ground 4. Leaves: mulch them, don’t bag them Mow the lawn one last time with the bag off. Shredded leaves feed soil microbes all winter. Leaves on patios or driveways? Rake them directly onto garden beds for extra insulation. 5. Drainage triage (because PNW “cold” usually means mud) Add a narrow trench or 4-inch perforated drain where puddles last longer than 24 hours Knock heavy snow off shrubs with a broom to prevent branches from bending, rooting, or rotting 6. Last-call lawn haircut Lower the mower one notch (never below 2 inches ) so grass doesn’t mat and develop pink snow mold. Skip fertilizer—nitrogen pushes tender growth that frost destroys. 7. Tool TLC (while you’re stuck inside anyway) Rinse shovels, scrub with crumpled foil, then store metal ends in a bucket of coarse sand mixed with inexpensive cooking oil. Rust-free and ready for February pruning.  Complete these steps once fall rains settle in, and your yard will wake up green, upright, and mostly pest-free when crocuses finally push through the moss.